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Aphids are soft-bodied insects which can appear white, green, yellow, black, brown and red, depending on their stage of life and where you live. Because they're so widespread, they can be a pest almost anywhere in the world!

Aphids look very different depending on their stage of life. The bigger, rounder bugs are adult aphids, while the white, smaller, thinner bugs are young aphids (nymphs). Note: If you're seeing white bugs that look like tiny fat worms, you may actually have thrips.


Sometimes when growers see tiny "Black Fly" or "Green Fly" bugs on their plants, they're actually seeing aphids with wings. Winged aphids can be dark or pale, and may be black, green, red or yellow. However, the general body shape is usually pretty similar whether aphids have wings or not.


Because many aphids are green, sometimes people don't recognise aphids when they're a different colour.

Aphids pierce leaves with their sucking mouth-parts and feed on the juices inside. They usually occur in colonies located mainly on the undersides of stems and leaves.

If a plant becomes heavily-infested, its leaves can turn yellow and/or wilt due to the excessive stress and leaf damage.

Another problem with aphids is they produce large amounts of a sweet substance known as "hondeydew," a sugary liquid waste. Honeydew drops from these insects can attract a type of fungus called sooty mould can grow on honeydew deposits accumulating on the leaves and branches of your plant, turning them black. 

The drops of sweet honeydew can also attract other insects such as ants. 


What Causes an Aphid Infestation?

Your plant can become infested when winged  "coloniser" aphids land on the plant and lay eggs. Although you may not see the winged version of an aphid actually eating your plant, they are still dangerous because they can lay eggs and start a new aphid colony!

It's difficult to prevent aphids from getting to your plants outdoors as just a handful of winged aphids is all it takes to start an infestation. The eggs soon hatch into a juvenile form of aphids called "nymphs," which happily start munching on your plant.

Immature aphids (nymphs) usually appear white and feed on plant sap while they gradually increase in size.

The aphid nymphs mature in 7 to 10 days and shed their skin, leaving silvery exoskeletons behind on your plants.

After reaching their wingless adult form (aphids don't grow wings when actively colonizing your plant) they are soon ready to give birth to live young and start the process over again. Most aphids in this form are female, and each one is capable of producing dozens of offspring.


Because of their quick reproduction, a few winged aphid "colonisers" can lead to hundreds or even thousands of aphids on a plant in just a few generations. A full-blown aphid infestation can get out of control in just a few weeks! 


Aphids often keep reproducing on the plant until the plant becomes so stressed (or the conditions become so crowded) that the plant can no longer support their ravenous appetites. At that point some of the aphids are born with wings, and these winged aphids fly off in search of a new host, starting the process over again on a new plant victim.


1.) Check regularly for signs of aphids

The best way to prevent an aphid infestation is to catch it as soon as possible. When growing outdoors it's pretty difficult to predict when winged "coloniser" aphids will appear, so it's incredibly important to examine your plants at least weekly to make sure they don't become infested while you're not paying attention.

Examine the bud area and undersides of the new leaves for clusters or colonies of small aphids (or any other types of bugs). The presence of these colonies indicates that the aphids are established on the plants and their numbers will begin to increase rapidly.

2.) Remove or Spray Off As Many Bugs As Possible

If your plant is heavily infested, it's a good idea to try to cut down their numbers in every way possible. Depending on the infestation, one way to do that may be to simply move your plants outside and spray as many bugs off as you can with a power sprayer. It's also a good idea to remove leaves and buds that are heavily infected.


3.) Use Pesticides

There are a wide range of pesticide products on the market, Organic and non-organic.

We recommend the organic types for plants grown for human or animal consumption.

These products are specifically made to rid your plants of any unwanted pests that may inhabit your leaves, buds, or soil. See below for more information


4.) Neem Oil

There's also some evidence Neem oil may be harmful to humans so use with care! Neem can also affect flavours and smells if used during the flowering period. That being said, Neem oil is an all-natural remedy that is very effective against many different types of bugs and mould. You will need a mister (also called a "One-Hand Pressure Sprayer") to spray all the leaves evenly, since neem oil and water can separate easily.

5.) Beneficial Insects

Beneficial insects, such as ladybirds and lacewings may eat large numbers of aphids and are welcome guests in the garden. Although you can order ladybirds to release around your plants, they tend to fly away in just a day or two. Additionally, the reproductive capability of aphids is so great that the impact of the natural enemies may not be enough keep aphids at or below acceptable levels after an infestation has already gotten started.

Ladybirds are good to have around the garden - they eat aphids and other annoying pests!

8.) Get rid of ants if you see them!

In some cases, ants naturally "farm" (look after) aphids in the wild in order to collect their honeydew. Ants can actually be helping keep your aphid numbers up! So for some growers, controlling an ant problem can actually help control an aphid problem.

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The images below show examples of how leaves with specific deficiencies can look.

If your plants are showing symptoms that look like any of the example leaves, click the image to find out more


Fungus gnats look like tiny flies buzzing around plants, especially around the soil. Their larva grows in wet soil, and they often appear when the topsoil stays wet for too long between waterings.

Fungus gnats are small, only about 2 mm long. To give you an idea of how big that is, 2mm is about the thickness of a 10p coin.

Despite their small size, fungus gnats can be a big nuisance in your soil grow, mostly because their tiny maggot/larvae offspring will hurt your plants roots (which will cause problems for your plants).

Fungus gnat larvae eat fungus or decaying matter, and need wet conditions to thrive. It is common for soil growers to overwater their plants, and wet soil is the perfect home for fungus and decaying organic matter. After fungus has grown (often invisible to the naked eye) or overwatered matter has begun to decay in the topsoil, fungus gnat lays their eggs in in the top layer of wet soil. Warm temperatures + wet topsoil = fungus gnats (and other problems or pests in soil)

These eggs hatch into larvae that look like tiny maggots which only live in the top 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) of soil. The fungus gnat larvae are the culprits which cause damage to roots.

Roots are not the main source of food for fungus gnat larvae, but roots get caught in the crossfire. Although the main diet of fungus gnats is fungus and decaying matter, the larvae happily gnaw on root hairs and young tender roots of plants.

The damage to the roots from these little suckers cause problems in the leaves and slowed growth. A bad fungus gnat infestation can even kill plants, especially young seedlings.

While the main problem is that fungus gnat larvae attack the roots of your plants, the adult fungus gnats can also spread diseases (such as pythium - a common cause of root rot) via their feet.

Because of these problems, it is important to get rid of a fungus gnat infestation right away.



A fungus gnat is so small it's thinner than the width of a quarter. They commonly appear when plants are watered too often. If you let the top inch of your soil dry out before watering your plants each time, fungus gnats often naturally go away on their own. However, if you have a really bad infestation, it can take weeks of good watering practices before you get rid of all of them unless you also do something to directly kill the bugs and bring down their numbers.

1.) Blow air over soil to help the topsoil dry out and make it harder for gnats to fly around and reproduce.

2.) Treat top layer of soil with Neem oil (follow the directions and use a pressure sprayer/mister so it gets distributed evenly). Neem oil is safe to use up until a few days before harvest, though you want to avoid getting it on buds and fruits as it has an odd smell that can linger for a few days. Spray Neem oil anywhere you see fungus gnats, it should kill them almost instantly. 

Note: Neem oil is great to have around the garden because it kills tons of different types of bugs.

3.) Put out yellow sticky traps wherever you see tons of gnats, to both bring down their numbers and help you know when you've beaten them for good.

4.) Check daily. If you have an actual infestation you will likely need to re-apply the treatments for a few days until the bugs are completely gone.

6.) If you have a really bad infestation, and you're still noticing some fungus gnats after treating them for a few days, try switching to one of the other fungus gnat cures as gnat get more resistant to your original method over time, and a new insecticide will hit them harder.

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Powdery Mildew is usually a minor annoyance that's easily fixed, but if you don't catch it early, white powdery mould can turn into a relative catastrophe that ruins an entire harvest!

If you have never experienced it, imagine circular patches of a living, breathing, fuzzy, flour-looking substance showing up on your plant’s leaves without any warning. From there, the mildew can easily spread to other leaves and buds, rendering the fruits unusable.

White Powdery Mildew spreads so evenly that even careful growers who take proper precautions can still experience it.

White Powdery Mildew is a rapidly reproducing (both sexually AND asexually) fungus who only knows how to do two things:

  1. Eat your plants

  2. Make more White Powdery Mildew

Fortunately, White Powdery Mildew is easy to spot since the white patches of fungal growth it creates stand out against green leaves.

It can be removed from plants with proper treatment if spotted early on, but any buds with WPM should be discarded as they most likely contain many more spores than your eye can see.

WPM is caused by a variety of things:

High Humidity

  • WPM needs moisture to thrive, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it needs water. Having a grow area with high humidity is all WPM needs to grow. This seems to be a bit problematic since young plants grow best in relatively humid environments (40% -60% RH). Luckily, high humidity usually only becomes an issue when it’s combined with low or no airflow.

  • People who live in environments with extremely high humidity (such as Florida and the UK) can purchase a dehumidifier to control humidity in the grow area. This is especially important during the flowering phase when humidity needs to be much lower (45% rh) to prevent rampant growth of WPM and mould.

Low/No Airflow

  • White Powdery Mildew has a hard time settling in a grow room where the air is being moved. High humidity will give WPM the conditions it needs to survive, but poor airflow is what gives it the ability to settle down in the first place. In fact, a small (preferably oscillating) fan moving air in a grow area will prevent the vast majority of White Powdery Mildew woes.

Poor Ventilation

  • If you have WPM spores in your grow area and the air in grow area is never exchanged for fresh air, the spores get multiple chances to land on your plants and reproduce. This happens most often in conditions where plants are being grown in a closed, unventilated space - such as a closet - and precautions aren’t taken to exchange old stale air for new fresh air.

Leaf-Leaf Contact

  • Leaves that are touching each other will form moisture between them, and thus they become more likely to contract WPM. Untrained bushy/leafy plants with lots of new vegetative growth are especially prone since plants will often have leaves mashed up against each other as they try to reach the light.

  • Advanced growers can defoliate some of the fan leaves that are completely shaded from the grow light to make fewer choice landing spots for White Powdery Mildew. Also, defoliation frees up energy for the plant to use when done correctly and increases yields.


Solution: In most cases when WPM is caught early, you can remove all traces of the mildew without harming your plants.

There are quite a few products and homemade concoctions people use to treat WPM. Among the effective treatments are:

  • Milk (1:9 ratio of milk to water)

  • Baking soda (2 tablespoons per gallon of water)

  • Neem Oil (4 teaspoons per gallon of water)

  • Hydrogen Peroxide (1 teaspoon per gallon of 35% H202)

The most simple strategy to get rid of White Powdery Mildew is as follows:

  1. Remove White Powdery Mildew from leaves - Get some water (tap water works fine) and some paper towels. Wet the paper towels and use them to gently wipe the mildew off the affected leaves whilst being careful not to jostle any leaves with spores on them. Using a wet cloth will ensure that more spores stick to the cloth instead of becoming airborne. Note: While it isn’t necessary to use paper towels, their disposability helps to curb the spread of spores from one leaf to another.

  2. Ensure plants have proper airflow and ventilation - Even if you have absolutely no airflow or ventilation in your grow room, having even two fans will drastically reduce your chances of encountering WPM while also benefitting your plants overall health. One fan should be oscillating if possible and should gently blow air over your plants. All the plants need is enough air to gently rustle their leaves. The second fan should be in your grow room pointing outward, pulling heat away from your plants (only needed if you have no ventilation). Having a fan pointing out of your grow room will force old air out of the room, and in turn, pull new air into the room. At this point, you’ll have new air coming in, being used and circulated, then kicked out. Keep in mind that two fans is a minimum.

  3. Treat plant with an organic pesticide such as CannaCure to kill spores and prevent future growth - Wait until just before your lights turn off for the day and mist your (newly cleaned) plants. Get all the leaves! This will kill any spores it touches, and anywhere it lands becomes uninhabitable for future spores. Plus, organic sprays are usually safe to use - even during flowering.

For helpful products, CLICK HERE


Spider mites are part of the mite family and are related to spiders, ticks and other mites. Although they're a common pest, they can be very difficult to get rid of. Spider mites have tiny sharp mouths that pierce individual plant cells and suck out the contents. This is what results in the tiny yellow, orange or white speckles you see on your plant leaves.

Spider mites are common pests, especially when growing in soil. Although less common in hydroponics, spider mites can show up in any setup where plants are being grown.


Spider mites can be an especially tricky pest in the grow room. Since they are so small they can build up a big infestation before a grower even notices a single mite.

Many growers see the distinctive tiny spots of a spider mite infestation and think it's some sort of nutrient deficiency, not realising it's actually something far more sinister. If the infestation goes on too long, you'll start to see webbing on your plants.


Spider mites are despised by growers. Here's why...

  • Rapid reproduction - a single mature female spider mite can produce a million mites in less than a month

  • Look like they're gone - spider mites often appear to be gone/killed, then they come back with a vengeance days or weeks later, right when you thought you'd gotten rid of them for good.

  • Big appetites - spider mites can eat up your tender plants in an amazingly short amount of time; a bad infestation has been known to kill plants overnight.

  • Webbing - spider mites cover leaves, buds and flowers with a fine mesh of silk webbing, ruining whole crops even after you get rid of the spider mites

  • Zombie-like resistance - spider mites quickly become immune to whatever you do to try to kill them; if you don't take care of your spider mite problem by eradicating them completely from your grow room, you may soon find you have a population of 'Super-mites'. The two-spotted white spider mite seems to be particularly resistant to insecticides, and is sometimes referred to as "the borg" in the growing community. These 'borg' spider mites with two spots on their back can be almost impossible to get rid of.


Spider mites often go unnoticed at first because they are so tiny that they look like spots to the naked eye. Male spider mites are about 1/50th of an inch long (.5mm) while females are slightly smaller at about 1/64" (.4mm). 

They have four pairs of legs, no antennae and a body shaped like an oval.

When spider mites attack a particular spot and you see lots of speckles near each other, the leaves may start looking yellow or bronzed. Badly attacked leaves often die prematurely.

Although it starts with speckles, this pest has certainly earned the "spider" part of its name from the distinctive silk webbing they spin on vegetation, leaves and flowers once an infestation really sets in. Web-producing spider mites may completely coat the foliage and flowers with the fine silk, which collects dust and looks dirty. 


Spider mites have a life cycle that helps them re-populate quickly and effectively after much of their population has been destroyed. 

Adult females begin the cycle by laying eggs, often on their host plants. In days or weeks an egg will hatch and become a larva, which is the first stage of life. Larvae are round bodied and have only three pairs of legs. The larvae feed for a few days, seek a sheltered spot to rest and then moult into the first nymphal stage. The first nymph now has four pairs of legs.

The first nymphs feed a few days, rest and moult into the second nymph. The second nymphs feed, rest and moult into the adult stage. Overall, it can take days or weeks for spider mites to go through their whole life cycle. 

Because of this variable growth process, it's common to think that you've eradicated the spider mites in your grow room while they're secretly building up numbers in one of their immature stages.

This is why it's so important to keep treating your grow room after a spider mite infestation even if it appears that all the spider mites are gone. Treat your grow room like a war zone, and don't allow the spider mites to build up any numbers and attack again!

Solution: Early detection of spider mites is key!

Spider mites are tiny and can be detected only by a full and thorough leaf inspection (on both sides of the leaf). If you find Spider Mites or eggs you must act fast and hit them hard.

Spider mites can be very quick to take over your plant, and even quicker to develop a resistance to almost any method you use to get rid of them, which is why it's generally recommended to use multiple methods of offense against a spider mite infestation.

If you have problems with spider mites, keep a constant and varied offense for the best chance at success.

It can help to identify how/where you got spider mites


If you already have an infestation, you will immediately want to start hitting them hard with something that will kill them on contact (several options are listed below). But....

First, what type of spider mite do you have?

  • Tracked in from outside

    • Vegetable garden

    • Animals/pets

    • From other outdoor plants

If you have some spider mites which got tracked in randomly from outside, it's likely you've got a run-of-the-mill spider mite that should be easy to get rid of.

Although these guys are annoying as well, they almost seem nice compared to their growroom-specialized counterparts.

Chances are you'll be able to successfully use one of the less harsh home remedies to stop your infestation. 


  • From another growroom

    • Clones were infested with spider mites

    • Tracked spider mites in from another growroom

    • Any time the spider mites were living on another indoor grow before they got to your plants

If you got your spider mites from a clone or plant from another grower, chances are you've got the type of spider mite that is an expert. These mites often seem to be the worst spider mite in this category!

These specialised spider mites are incredibly developed at living on indoor plants, and may already be immune to many common spider mite remedies.

If you believe you got your spider mites from another grower, then don't play games. Get rid of your mites ASAP, before they adapt to your grow room and become unstoppable.



Step 1: Kill Every Spider Mite You Can

Before your first treatment...

  • Control the heat

  • Have lots of air blowing over the plants and top of growing medium

  • Spray spider mites off the plants if you can

Spider mites like the heat and hate a windy environment. A cool breezy grow space won't get rid of spider mites, but it makes it harder for them to reproduce so your other control methods are more effective.

​If it's possible for you to bring your plants outside or somewhere safe, you might even consider spraying off as many spider mites as you can, to get their numbers down before you start your main treatments.

Get a fan blowing over the plants and top of growing medium 

Not only do plants grow better with a breeze, great air circulation is great for pest prevention. Spider mites love heat and stagnant, non-moving air. They can't mate in windy conditions so a strong fan can help keep the infestation from getting worse. A breeze also helps pest treatments go better because fans help spray treatments dry on the plant.


CannaCure is a great organic way to rid your grow room of spider mites. Spray plants just before lights out, making sure to drench the foliage under the leaves. Use a fan to blow on your leaves to help things dry. Treat your room more than once, even if you believe the spider mites are gone. You will need a mister (also called a "One-Hand Pressure Sprayer") to spray all the leaves evenly.


Nite Nite Spidermite - Use just like CannaCure (drench leaves top and bottom), though it works in a different way so you can use both of them to attack your spider mites (though not at the same time). You will need a mister (also called a "One-Hand Pressure Sprayer") to spray all the leaves evenly.


Pyrethrum 5EC (safe & organic) - Pyrethrum 5EC is a natural, professional-grade insecticide made from dried Chrysanthemum flowers. Pyrethrum 5EC effectively kills almost all garden pests safely, leaving no toxic residue.

Pyrethrum is a naturally-derived, professional-grade pesticide which attacks the nervous system of a wide spectrum of pest insects. Pyrethrum 5EC kills aphids, fruit flies, fungus gnats, greenfly, spider mites, ticks, tobacco beetles, whitefly, blackfly, springtails, moths and many other garden pests. You will need a mister (also called a "One-Hand Pressure Sprayer") to spray all the leaves evenly.


Step 2: Follow up in 2-3 days with a different method to kill them (you should also re-apply your first method)

Follow up in 2-3 days with something different that will also kill their eggs and any surviving adults. The adults at this point will already be more resistant to your original method so you'll get the best results using something else for the second treatment.


Step 3: Repeat steps 1 & 2 at least one more time to ensure that you have really cleaned out your grow room. Some species of spider mite can take days or weeks to mature and will reappear in the grow room stronger than ever. Because of this, you should treat your area at least once after you are almost certain all the spider mites are gone.

Using a mix of several different methods seems to work best for getting rid of spider mites. Some spider mites are more resistant to some methods than others.

If you can see spider mites with your eyes, it means you probably have millions in the room waiting to hatch.


Step 4: Prevention: thoroughly inspect and proof your grow area against future attacks

Once spider mites are gone, you need to worry about prevention.

With spider mites, the best offence is a good defence! 

If you've had spider mite attack your grow room in the past, you might be unintentionally doing something to encourage or attract them.

There are many preventative products such as sprays which make plants less tasty to annoying spider mites. However, these should only be used as a supplement to good gardening practices.

The most important aspect of spider mite (or any pest) prevention when growing indoors is a clean and secure grow room.


Never Bring Spider Mites into Your Grow Room!

Many indoor growers get spider mites from bringing in clones that are infected, or from visiting another grower or grow room with spider mites. Even just a few eggs on a clone or a few spider mites on your clothes is all it takes to start a full fledged infestation. This is the most common way people get spider mites which can be almost impossible to kill!

Most importantly, never move plants or clones from the outside world into your grow room without treating and quarantining them. If you get a new plant, keep that plant away from your other plants until you know that it's clean.

For every new plant or clone:

  • Get a handheld microscope and use it to look for bugs on new plants. Check closely for tiny spots on the leaves which could be spider mite bites. Also check for eggs and tiny bugs underneath the leaves. It's easiest to find bugs when the plant is at its smallest.

  • Dip new clones or small plants in room temperature water treated with the above mentioned products. If you can't dip the plant, spray with a proven spider mite cure.

  • Keep new plants in quarantine for at least a week and check regularly to ensure they have no bugs before you bring them around your other plants.

  • Never go directly into the grow room from outdoors to avoid tracking in bugs. If you've visited another grower or grow room, it's especially important to change your clothes and possibly shower before going to check on your plants. You don't want to infect your plants with spider mites or other bugs!

One of the cool things about growing with seeds is you never have to worry that they come with bugs!


Keep a Clean Grow Space

Try to keep everything clean and tidy. Not only does this help prevent bugs but it protects buds so they don't have fibers and dust all over them!

  • Collect any dead leaves or other plant matter regularly and remove them from your growing space. It doesn't count if you put them in a neat pile or trash can in the corner, you need to keep dead plant matter out of your grow room.

  • Make sure that you or anyone who comes into your contact space is clean (don't let anyone walk into your grow room directly from outside). Be especially cautious if the person has recently visited another grow space. 

  • No dogs, cats, rabbits or any other pets in your grow space. In addition to shedding and possibly bringing in bugs, some cats will happily chew on your leaves and buds, so double reason not to let them anywhere near your plants!

  • Wipe up and sterilise everything in between grows.


Maintain a Great Growing Environment

Spider mites do better in some environments than others. Luckily the conditions that make your plants happy are not that great for spider mites. So if you're taking care of your plant's environment, you're also helping to prevent bugs and mould.

  • Make sure you have great airflow in your room because spider mites thrive in stagnant air. Creating lots of air movement will not only help prevent spider mites, fungus gnats and mould, but your plants love it too!

  • Spider mites like hot, dry weather. Maintaining a comfortable room temperature and a moderate amount of humidity in the grow room will help prevent or slow down a spider mite infestation.

  • If you have an air intake from outside, make sure you have some sort of filter to keep bugs from getting in.

Keep a close watch on your plants, and react quickly at the first site of spider mites.

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Springtail are very small insects that can cause quite a surprise when you first see them. These insects get their name because they have a body part that acts as a spring causing them to suddenly jump more than 10cm! Naturally, this ability can make them somewhat hard to catch or even to realise what they are at first. If you see a small insect that is moving very fast, there is a good chance it is a common springtail which is also sometimes known as a snow flea.

The springtail isn't always a bad thing as they feed on moulds and fungus, so if you have areas that have a lot of this going on you are a prime candidate for having a larger than you would like population of springtails to deal with. Damp areas that have been subject to moisture damage are a great place to find springtails.

Mould and fungus can also attract fungus gnats that can cause you some frustration as well, so getting rid of the mould and fungus is going to make your grow room a lot more hospitable.

There is little to fear from springtails. You don’t have to worry about any bites or irritation. This is important to remember when coming up with solutions or if you are feeling overwhelmed because you have so many around your plants.

Springtails are very prolific. You may find that you have thousands of them in one spot. This can seem like a huge problem to deal with especially if it is near space you use a lot. When you have so many bugs jumping around it can look like you are in for the infestation of the century.

Solution: Feed plants at a reasonable time

  • Feeding your plants so they have enough time to drink while the lights are on is a great place to begin. Mould tends to build up when pots are left damp so if your daily feed is later in the 'lights on' period, then maybe consider feeding earlier so the plants can drink it all before the lights go off.

Add Light

  • Poorly lit locations are the most likely place to have a springtail population. If you are struggling with them, then you should consider adding brighter light bulbs or more lamps or fixtures to your room. Defoliating lower branches and leaves can help light reach the soil in your pots, having the same effect as adding light.


  • Vinegar is very acidic, so if you spray it on a springtail, it will kill them. You can use the cheapest vinegar to do this to save money. This is not a project to waste your fancy vinegar on. Put it in a spray bottle and spray the areas infested. Note: this will alter the ph of your soil so make sure you check this regularly if you choose to use this method.

Liquid Oxygen

  • This will rid your pots of your unwanted guests, however, this will also rid your pots of any wanted guests such as friendly bacterias and beneficial root zone fungi at the same time. This is not necessarily the most ideal way to prevent springtail but is very likely to work.

Assess Ventilation in Your Room

  • If you have poor ventilation in your Room, then the temperatures may be contributing to a moisture problem. You can improve ventilation by adding fans around your room. make sure you have the correct intake/extract system in order to remove any excess humidity and dampness.

Springtails Are a Sign of Other Issues

  • One of the most important takeaway lessons is that if you see a lot of springtails and they return even after you treat your home for them, you need to assess the methods of growing you use.

Cold Temperatures Is Not Enough to Kill Them

  • In some ways, springtails are tough little guys. You can see them in cold moving water sometimes and it doesn’t seem to have any impact on them so getting a space really cold is not going to solve your springtail issue. This is one reason they are known as “snow fleas”. Cold may help with some other insects, but it is usually too challenging to get your grow room cold enough without it affecting your plants health.

Outdoor Control Is More Important Than Indoor

  • Springtails thrive outside, so this is where you need to take them on first. If they are not allowed to do well outside, then they are far less likely to get into your grow room. This also means that choosing organic methods of pest control are preferable to avoid any issues with aquatic life, birds, and mammals around you. Populations come and go and are usually very manageable. You should be glad if this is the only insect you have to deal with regularly.


  • You are going to have to treat for springtails more than once. Almost any insect population is impossible to control with just a single treatment, especially if you are using methods that are not extremely harsh and harmful to the environment. The sooner you start taking control of the situation the sooner you will be able to get on with your life.

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Thrips are small, fast-moving insects and can come in many forms, from pale wormy looking things to dark winged insects, depending on the stage of life and where you live.

They pierce leaves with their mouths and suck out all the good stuff, leaving shiny, slimy looking, silver or bronze spots wherever the leaves were bitten. This often looks like tiny slug or snail trails. The spots are bigger and more irregularly shaped than the bites left from spider mites. If it goes on too long the affected leaves may start dying.

In their "nymph" (juvenile) form, thrips appear pale, fat and almost wormy from afar


While not being extremely aggressive with plants, thrip pests are common in indoor growing tents or rooms. As happens with red spider mites, thrips need high temperatures to appear and can be persistent if not treated properly. The first signs are small silver dots/stains on the surface of the leaves, which are the places were thrips have bit or laid their eggs.

As we mentioned, thrip pests don’t usually kill plants, but if the pest is not treated it can significantly reduce yields and affect the overall health status of the plant. As the pest progresses, we can notice very small black dots on the leaves, which are thrip faeces.

Thrips go through three stages of life.

1. The first is in the soil as little worms (larvae) eating the roots. They can't be killed by sprays at this stage because they're sheltered deep in the soil.

2. The second stage of a thrips life cycle is as a fast crawling bug that is so tiny (1/16" to 1/8" long) they're almost impossible to see. They look kind of like a miniture silverfish at this stage, and they suck the juice out of the bottoms of the leaves, and the newest most delicate growth on the plant, including the flowers and fruits. Sprays aren't very effective on them at this stage due to the fact that the thrips can hide in that new growth at the top of the plant.

3. The last stage of the thrips life is as a flying insect. They look almost exactly like a fungus gnat and they're the same little guys that are buzzing around your head outside in the summer. They don't do any real damage at this stage, but they lay new eggs, perpetuating the problem.

1.) Insecticidal soap

Fatty acid salts or insecticidal soaps, such as trounce, can be a good choice against thrips. They weaken the outer shell of thrips but are safe to use on your plants and they don't leave much of a residue.

With soaps, coverage is very important as it does not stay on your plant for long, so follow-up applications may be necessary. Although this is considered safe, avoid getting any on your fruits, flowers, or buds!


2.) Neem Oil

Neem Oil will leave an unpleasant taste/smell on your crop when used to treat flowering plants, so don't let this stuff get near your fruits, flowers and buds! There's also some evidence Neem oil may be harmful to humans so use with care! That being said, Neem oil is an all-natural remedy that is very effective against many different types of bugs and mould. You will need a mister (also called a "One-Hand Pressure Sprayer") to spray all the leaves evenly, since neem oil and water can separate easily.


3.) Pyrethrins

Pyrethrin based insecticides are not very toxic for humans and degrade quickly, which is why they're commonly recommended for vegetable gardens. You will need a mister (also called a "One-Hand Pressure Sprayer") to spray all the leaves evenly.

Pyrethrin products break down quickly, over the course of just a day or two. The major problem with them is they are very toxic to bees. Although indoor plants generally don't attract a lot of bees, please use this as a last resort, and also try to use it right after the sun goes down because bees sleep at night. This lets it start to break down before they wake up.

Use pyrethrin products when the sun goes down! Save the bees!

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Common on indoor plants, tomatoes and in greenhouses, the whitefly (Trialeurodes vaporariorum) is a sap-sucking insect that is often found in thick crowds on the undersides of leaves. When infested plants are disturbed, great clouds of the winged adults fly into the air. Most growers will notice the tiny white bugs flying around before they notice any actual leaf damage. Both nymphs and adults damage plants by sucking the juices from new growth causing stunted growth, leaf yellowing and reduced yields. Plants become weak and susceptible to disease. Like aphids, whiteflies secrete honeydew, so leaves maybe sticky or covered with a black sooty mould. They are also responsible for transmitting several plant viruses.

Host plants include more than 250 ornamental and vegetable plants. Citrus, squash, poinsettia, potato, cucumber, grape, tomato and hibiscus are commonly infested.

An infestation can get out of control if you ignore it! The eggs they lay are practically glued to the plant, so you can't wipe them off.



Adults (1/16 inch long) are moth-like insects with powdery white wings and short antenna. They are easily recognised and often found near the tops of plants or on stem ends. Wingless nymphs are flattened, oval and almost scale-like in appearance. After the first instar, or crawler stage, they settle down and attach themselves to the underside of leaves and begin feeding.


Life Cycle

Young nymphs overwinter on the leaves of host plants. In late spring adult females deposit 200-400 eggs in circular clusters on the undersides of upper leaves. The eggs hatch in 5-10 days and first instar nymphs, which resemble small mealybugs and are called crawlers, move a short distance from the egg before flattening themselves against the leaf to feed. The remaining nymphal stages (2nd, 3rd and 4th) do not move. A non-feeding pupal stage follows and within a week, young adults emerge to repeat the cycle. There are many generations per year. Whiteflies develop from egg to adult in approximately 25 days at room temperature. Adults may live for one to two months.

Note: All of the immature stages are easily overlooked. They are usually pale, almost translucent, and blend with the colour of the leaf to which they are attached. Superficially they are similar to several scale insects.


Proven White Fly Remedies

1.) Sticky Traps

Put out yellow sticky traps wherever you see tons of whitefly, to both bring down their numbers and help you know when you've beaten them for good.

2.) Neem Oil

Neem Oil will leave an unpleasant taste/smell on your crop when used to treat flowering plants, so don't let this stuff get near your fruits, flowers and buds! There's also some evidence Neem oil may be harmful to humans so use with care! That being said, Neem oil is an all-natural remedy that is very effective against many different types of bugs and mould. You will need a mister (also called a "One-Hand Pressure Sprayer") to spray all the leaves evenly, since neem oil and water can separate easily.

3.) Predator Insects

Natural predators of this pest include ladybugs and lacewing larvae, which feed on their eggs and the whitefly parasite which destroys nymphs and pupae. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.


4.) Organic Pesticides

Pesticides such as CannaCure is a great organic way to rid your grow room of spider mites. Spray plants just before lights out, making sure to drench the foliage under the leaves. Use a fan to blow on your leaves to help things dry. Treat your room more than once, even if you believe the spider mites are gone. You will need a mister (also called a "One-Hand Pressure Sprayer") to spray all the leaves evenly.

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